The ball python is one of the most popular snakes sold. The ball python is a great pet for the first-time snake owner. Ball Python’s tame easily and interact well with humans.

SIZE AND LONGEVITY: As adults they grow to be from three to five feet. You can expect your ball python to live twenty to thirty years.

PROPER HANDLING: You must always handle your ball python gently. Do not disturb him while he is in his coiled up position, wait until he is not frightened. During the initial handling and taming of your ball python keep him away from your face until he is tamed. When reaching for your ball python you should reach from behind him to pick him up and always remember to support his body. Ball Pythons do not like to have their faces touched.

CAGE: For the cage you will need a glass aquarium with a screen lid. You will need clamps to keep the lid on the aquarium so your ball python will not escape. For a juvenile ball python you will need an aquarium at least as large as a ten-gallon aquarium. This is the minimum size you should use and larger aquariums are recommended. For small adults the size should at least a 20-gallon aquarium, however your ball python would prefer a larger size. For the very large adults you will need an aquarium with the floor area of at least a 40-gallon aquarium (36 x 18).

BEDDING: Our first recommendation for bedding is for you to use shredded forest bark, our second recommendation is jungle earth. Both of these will help keep moisture in your cage and are good for easy cleaning of your snake cage. The layer of bedding should be about two inches thick.

HEATING, LIGHT, HEATING PAD AND THERMOMETOR: To create the right temperatures you will need a clap light with a basking bulb, a heating pad on one-third to one-half of the bottom of the aquarium, and a reptile thermometer. Your ball python requires relatively high temperatures. The temperature in your ball python’s cage should be 75 – 80 degrees with a basking spot between 85 – 90 degrees. The temperature can safely drop down to 75 degrees at night. You can easily regulate the temperature with a digital thermometer inside the cage.

HALF LOG: We recommend you get your snake a half log for hiding under. The half log will also give your snake something rough to climb on to help him with shedding, a rough rock also works well.

WATER AND WATER DISH: You will need a water dish large enough for your snake to fit its entire body in, this will allow it to soak and help with shedding. Your snake’s water dish should always be full of water and you will need to give them fresh water everyday.

MISTING: You should have a clean spray bottle that has never had any chemical in it. Fill it with fresh water to mist your snake every other day. A light mist is all that is needed.

WHERE, WHAT AND HOW OFTEN TO FEED YOUR BALL PYTHON: First thing you should know is you should not feed your ball python in its own cage. You should always remove him from his cage and place him in a paper bag or a shoebox for example, be sure when placing him in one of these that he cannot escape.

It is always better to feed your snake dead mice, rats, or rabbits (depending on his size) rather then live ones. There is a big risk of a live rodent possibly biting your snake and making harming your snake.

You should feed your snake a rodent that is no bigger then the thickest part of your snakes body (biggest girth part).

You should be feeding you ball python one time a week. Please remember after feeding your ball python do not handle him after he has just eaten until the lump in his stomach is gone, if there is no lump then wait at least twenty-fours before handling him after he has ate. Also remember ball pythons are picker eaters and do notice the season’s changing. During the winter months most ball pythons will not want to eat as often. This is nothing to be alarmed with as long as they are still drinking and you there is not noticeable weight loss.